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Managing successful cat and dog integrations
By Frania Shelley-Grielen. All rights reserved.
How do you introduce a new cat to your dog or a new dog to your cat. How long
does it take? How difficult is it? Does it matter if the dog has cat experience or the
cat, has dog experience? What about what kind of breed the dog is? Or how old
they are? Or you may have heard that it’s easier with a puppy or is it a kitten?
The answer to managing successful cat and dog introductions can be found in
paying careful attention to a number of key elements: individual differences, the
right environment for each species, behavior monitoring, behavior modification
and time. Here’s a closer look on what to consider and some helpful strategies:
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Individual differences: not all cats and dogs are the same and not all past relationships equal new relationships. Each pet, cat or dog, has a different personality, level of socialization and history. While it is definitely helpful to know if a cat has lived successfully with a dog in the past it is also necessary to realize that this was a unique relationship where that particular cat lived with that particular dog. You still want to help broker the best possible way to integrate a cat and dog that are new to each other. It is also worth noting that cats and dogs that have had positive experiences with each other in the past are more likely to anticipate positive experiences. And being aware of a history of negative experiences or no experience means a new situation can be stressful. Either way, factor in personality and history always, keeping in mind the canine and feline perspective.
The right environment: the physical space has to be set up so that it is enriched appropriately for both cats and dogs, allows for comfortable and safe interactions, exit routes and refuges. For dogs this means dog beds or places on the people furniture to be used as resting places. It also means enough toys, including puzzle toys and chew toys to interact with independently and with people. When a dog does not interact with a toy or respond to play, ask first what other toys or play might the dog like using natural behavior to inform your choices and try them out, giving enough time and enough dog meaningful playtime to see results. For instance, the oral expression of chewing with dogs leads to prolonged interactions with objects to chew on which engage the dog in natural behavior and give it a much needed something to do. Stuffed puzzle feeders such as "Kongs" are almost a must have for every dog to chew breakfast or dinner from. The more a dog has to do, the less bored, the less behavior issues and the less entertaining the cat, as a distraction will be.
In their natural environment cats are arboreal and use trees and other raised areas to survey their environment, detect prey and to escape from predators which translates to a necessary refuge from unwanted canine attention or simply feline "alone" time. A well placed cat tower, against a wall and ideally, next to a window, is a great way to add raised vertical spaces. A cat bed on top of a dresser is another nice solution. Think cat, in thinking how easily a cat can access a raised resting space. Exit paths and access routes should be effortless for the cat the figure out and obtain. Cats also need cat beds with at least three raised sides to curl up in and a cat bed nested on a cat tower’s enclosed plane is a welcome addition for any cat. Think against walls and under chairs for beds placed on the floor, always keeping in mind the cat wants the hide as a safe refuge and not a place to be trapped in. The best cat beds can come in the mail, cardboard boxes turned on their side can work too and the raised sides often give kitty a feeling of security, sometimes, even away from a wall. Seeing what your cat uses, taking in preferred cat locations and giving a few days to acclimate to a new object, will tell you what they like.
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Puzzle feeders for cats allow for natural behaviors and are huge in preventing boredom. In the initial stages of integration, when cats are dog are separated, a rolling puzzle feeder is a good choice. When cats and dogs are sharing the same spaces, use a puzzle feeder that only the cat can access by placing it on a raised surface the dog cannot access, like a counter top.
The right kind of music is a definite plus for an enriched environment for both cats and dogs and can definitely assist in a successful integration process. A number of studies have shown positive effects of classical music on a number of species and are especially effective in shelter environments and group housing situations. Classical radio stations are a nice choice to leave on when you are not home (and even when you are). In addition to the relaxing tones of the music, the announcer’s voices are calming which adds to the comfort. Some good stations to try are 105.9 FM in NYC or 90.3FM in Westchester, and for online choices Pandora’s “Classical Music for Studying.”
Both cats and dogs need daily interactive play time with their people. This is even more important during an integration process. Play is a definite stress reducer, releases beneficial hormones associated with pleasure, is just plain fun and boosts relationships across the human animal bond and creates positive associations with the change in the environment. (Continue Reading Below)
For cats this means working with a fishing wand toy that can be dragged across from or away from the cat’s line of vision and allowing the cat to follow and pounce on the toy. (Avoid laser pointers which can be harmful vision wise and are frustration inducing with nothing to “catch.”) For dogs, tug-of-war with a designated toy –nothing else, please- and/or tennis ball chasing, “find –it” or other fun-for-the-dog games should be indulged in. Hand feeding “off and take it” – more on this below - can qualify when done correctly.
During the initial stages of integration, cats and dogs should be physically separated. This allows for each species to get used to the new space and inhabitants in the safest and most comfortable manner. Remember, you are dealing with two new things to get used to here: new environment and new animals. Dogs are more comforted by access to their people as opposed to familiarization with territory, so keeping the dog close to humans is the least stressful for them. For cats, smaller spaces are easier to adjust to and comfortable with initially, especially with all the new smells, sounds and sights to conquer.
This means keeping dogs for that crucial first week or so out of cat spaces during the day. Living rooms, offices and watching TV with us after work, are ideal places and times when this can happen. Installing the cat in a bedroom along with all necessary cat furniture, toys, litter box and food allows the cat to familiarize themselves with a new space on a more comfortable scale. Avoid bathrooms, as an initial space if possible, the more time the cat can spend with humans or the room we spend most of our time in, the more social support afforded by your presence and our scent. The dog should not have day time access to this room for at least, the first week or two. If there is only one bedroom which the dog customarily shares for nighttime sleeping, do not disrupt this practice, rather address comfort and safety through raised, cat accessible resting spaces (such as cat shelves and towers) and sleeping with the dog attached to a leash attached to you. This allows cats to feel secure and you to monitor and redirect dog movement.
Behavior monitoring. Closely monitor interactions, including your own - lectures, scolding or any forms of force or any other types of punishment needs to be avoided. We are trying to create positive associations with the changes in the home punishment creates fear, distrust, interferes with learning and prevents forming affiliative relationships with all species.
Pay attention to what the cat and dog are “saying.” Relaxed bodies and lack of intense interest are good signs. Intense vigilance for either cat or dog by extended staring or fixed gaze is not good. Lip licking or yawning out of context of eating or fatigue) for either cat or dog is a stress signal as is looking away. There is bound to be stress initially, so as long as this does not escalate, allow for some. Keeping dogs on leashes even when you are at home will both allow for safety and afford opportunities for alerting us to intention movement through leash tension.
Look at body tension, stiff and rigid are more about defending territory or preparing to mount an attack. Vocalizing for dogs or straining at the leash are both signs of frustration and attention getting. Hissing, growling, flattened ears with cats and whiskers drawn back, are some of their signs that attention is not welcome or of displeasure with the environment. Seeing this means time for redirecting or relocation to a neutral, safe location. Always keep in mind it is way more effective to defuse an eminent situation from happening rather than dealing with one underway. So redirecting sooner rather than later is easier and less stressful for everyone involved.
Having a strategy in place beforehand can help with dealing with a volatile encounter. For dogs that are not particularly responsive to “off” requests, begin training this now. Take the morning or evening and meal and hand feed. Offer a piece of kibble placed directly in front of the dog’s nose and say in a soft, calm voice- “Off.” Your voice will cause the dog to momentarily pause in going for the food. In the very same second you see that pause say “Good Off!” in a happy voice, you will see the same pause. Next step is to offer the kibble a bit closer and say “Take it” in a happy voice. Do not scold or reprimand in any way if you think the dog is not getting it right. You most probably have a timing issue, so work on that by you trying to do it better. If the dog is not listening at all and going for food you can try starting with giving a piece of kibble to begin without any requirements for a while and then begin with the “Off” request. Still, no response? Try an “uh uh” in a bit of a higher tone but NOT more than one or two syllables and when you see that pause to the “uh uh” reward with “Good Off”! and “take it (give kibble)!” Practice, practice, practice always remembering it is about YOUR timing so the dog can get it right.
Again, human behavior also needs monitoring in a new cat/dog integration. Remember that training and interactions need to be positive, consistent and take into account individual relationships with residents and newcomers. Always, greet your most senior resident animal when you enter a room or your home first before the newcomer. Your relationship and interactions are a valued resource to distribute along with food and resting areas.
Remember to avoid at all costs punishment, it is not as effective as positive methods, makes things worse not better and damages relationships. Think instead of how you can work on getting the desired behavior through environment and meaningful direction. If you have made sure that the cat and dog have safe spaces to retreat to and can get their easily in an antagonistic situation ask next how can you facilitate that happening? After getting attention using the name of your pet, can you: Offer a feather toy to chase after? Throw a ball to run after?
Behavior modification: Start with encouraging and praising all the behaviors you do want, even if they are simple ones. A sleeping, calm dog can be praised for “good quiet” or “good sleep.” Getting in the habit of praise and reinforcement for what we want our pets to do offers an opportunity to develop more of the good behaviors happening more frequently because we are rewarding them. Not to mention, this builds a better human animal bond.
A dog that is getting ready to chase a cat needs to be redirected before the pursuit begins. Always keep it positive. Think of redirecting as a sequence of a direction such as off or no and then what you would like the dog to do instead: “Off Rover”, “Good Off Rover!”,“Go to your bed/get your ball”, etc. Throwing that ball for your dog to chase is even better in refocusing the energy. Similarly, a cat that is getting riled by a dog needs to be redirected. For cats, that feathered fishing wand toy is a great lure to change the energy in this moment and move them away from the dog. Not handy? You can softly say “no” and if the cat is tractable and can be handled pick them up and place them in their raised resting spaces. Reassure with one or two strokes alongside the muzzle or behind the ears. If the cat is not tractable placing an object (not your hands), like a newspaper, pillow or other object to block the visual stimuli and forward motion between cat and dog are usually the most effective. If you must use your body as a barrier it should be the lower half of your body either from the front or the back. Separate fighting animals with loud noises, if that does not work in 3 seconds, water, if that does not work in 3 seconds, a bath towel or large denim shirt thrown over one animal is usually effective.
Time and consistency: As much as we would like to sit everyone down and explain how we all are going to be one happy family we don’t have the words to do that with our cats and dogs who cannot and do not benefit from them. What we do have is what we show them by the spaces and experiences we create for them. Based on the quality and safety of these interactions and given time for them to allow for the belief that their environment is stable they can come to believe in and trust that one big happy family exists.
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